CAPO
PASSERO
The
extreme southeastern tip of Sicily consists of a headland with a
lighthouse: to sea, it marks the point at which the Ionian Sea meets
the Canale di Sicilia. The local tuna fishery flourished during
the course of this century, and continues to be owned by the Baron
of Belmonte, who, only in 1994, took part in a calata when the fishermen
go out to lay the nets far catching tuna.
The
complex comprises canning works albeit now unused, where the tuna
was put into tins, a house for the Rais – the quarter-master
responsible for overseeing the mattanza (the killing of the tuna)
and a family residence for the owner himself. A splendid view stretches
across the water to the open horizon: a seascape which changes tirelessly
at the whim of the elements.
A
natural channel separates the islet of Capo Passero from the mainland;
this can prove to be an especially strategic place to lay nets when
the tuna are running. The islet, meanwhile, has been subject to
a campulsorily purchase so that the colony of dwarf palms growing
there might be protected; this has forced the fish-rearing tanks
that were there to be jettisoned at sea, and has decimated tuna
fishing in the area; as a result, the place is no longer the centre
of activity it used to
be.
Portopalo
di Capo Passero – This comprises the small picturesque
archetypal fishing-village. Naturally, the hub of activity is the
harbour where, between noon and 2pm, the fishing-boats return and
the quays suddenly throng with curious old men and busy housewives
come to purchase the fresh catch straight from the sea.
A
curious fact about the mattanza
During
the catch, the fishermen used to signal the number of tuna netted
in the various Chambers: a white flag was flown when there were
ten; a red one meant there were 20; a white one for 30; a red and
white one to signal 40, and so on. If they were unable to estimate
the number of fish, they used to wave a sailor’s jacket on
top of an oar, a gesture known as u' cappottu, which meant “we
can’t count them any more, there are too many". |
Siracusa
Augusta
Avola
Buccheri
Buscemi
Canicattini Bagni
Carlentini
Cassaro
Ferla
Floridia
Francofonte
Lentini
Melilli
Noto
Pachino
Palazzolo Acreide
Porto Palo di Capo Passero
Priolo Gargallo
Rosolini
Solarino
Sortino
Arenella
Brucoli
Capo Passero
Eloro
Eremo San Corrado
Fontane Bianche
Laghetti Di Avola
Marina Di Avola
Marina Di Noto
Marzamemi
Noto Antica
Ognina
Pantalica
Ponte Saraceno
Vendicari
Leontinoi
Megara Hyblaea
Thapsos
Testi
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Scivoletto e Michelin Italia. Le foto sono di proprietà
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